Earlier this year (in February), I was lucky enough to get to travel with one of our favorite importers. During our marathon of travel, we set out all over Italy visiting winemakers, exploring vineyards, checking out off-the-beaten-path artisans, and generally eating and drinking our way through the country. One of my favorite stops along the way was in Piedmont: the commune of Costigliole d’Asti in the heart of the “Barbera d’Asti” appellation at Cascina Roera.

Cascina Roera was created in 2002 by two young entrepreneurs: Claudio ROSSO and Piero NEBIOLO (with names like these, you are pre-destined to make wine). Being proud members of Vin Natur (an organization dedicated to preserving both the traditional techniques of winemaking and the promotion of sustainable agriculture), Claudio and Piero were intent on being as true to their heritage and land as possible. “We feel like artisans of wine, and we have decided to produce wine of quality with respect to the consumer and the environment.” This is a seemingly simple motto, but in this age of instant gratification and gentrification, quality and uniqueness in wine is becoming hard to find. If ecological consciousness is not the first thing you search for when selecting a bottle of wine, the offerings of Cascina Roera are still very compelling because they are good…Very Good.

The two best wines that showcase Roera’s talent and terrior are the 2005 Cardin Barbera d’Asti Superiore and the 2004 San Martino Barbera d’Asti Superiore. These wines receive their namesake from the part of the vineyard in which they are grown. The Cardin is situated in what Claudio and Piero consider optimum western exposure with preferred soil, and the vines are mature (being thirty or so years of age). This translates to the bottle as a multi- layered wine with intense dark fruit. It is not heavy or jammy, has good acidity, and the medium-toned tannins (with hints of tobacco and sage) create a palate that has a long, satisfying finish. The San Martino is a different wine altogether. Although it too is well balanced, it is certainly more rugged with more concentrated plum notes.

The stronger tannins of apple skins and peppercorn are followed by a palate that blooms with spice and dried cherries. These more pronounced flavors can be attributed to the location of the vines just like the Cardin. The San Martino vines are grown in soil with high amounts of clay and have a southern exposure which creates more powerful flavors in the fruit. If you have ever heard the term “microclimate”, this is what these wines are all about.

For the tasting this week, we will open up four offerings from Cascina Roera. The 2005 Cardin Barbera d’Asti Superiore ($33), the 2004 San Martino Barbera d’asti Superiore ($30), the 2007 le Rovere Barbera ($20), and a crisp, delicious, and fleshy white from Roera: the 2009 Ciapin Bianco da tavola (a white made of arneis, cortese, and chardonnay grapes for $17). The wines of Cascina Roera are very good and offer broad appeal; we highly recommend stopping by this weekend and visiting the tasting table to see/taste for yourself.

Cheers!

Fred Mullins